Questions, 1 of 3.

I'm planning to wire the six LED channels in parallel, driven from six GPIOs.

I am looking for a good way to connect the wires to the controller board in back. For other recent projects I used JST SL, but I don't want to use them again. They're too big, too hard to unlatch, and not wire-to-board. Maybe Molex CLIK-Mate? Other suggestions? I don't want to buy a crimping tool...

Each LED strip will use 2.25 amps max.

Thanks.

52/N

@3dprinting Here are my current thoughts about the Filabilly Humidor's wiring harness. Description in the alt text.

I have questions; see the next few posts.

(Tagging some known LED mavens because you folks have experience. @jasoncoon @wizard @geekmomprojects)

51/N

@3dprinting Then I started thinking about how to route the wires and what connectors and where to locate the MCU and which door sensors to use and it's just too much to figure out today.

I've got a long list of features I want to put into this cabinet. Lighting, fan, temperature/humidity, door sensors, knock sensor, an LCD display, and the dehumidifier. Maybe I should figure out a way to add features incrementally. But they're all interdependent.

50/N

@3dprinting The plan is to have this aluminum channel running up the center of the FilaBilly Humidor. It will provide a surface for the door to seal against (I hope) and also hold an LED strip to light up the interior.

I got this far in modeling and printing the clip that holds the LEDs in. (cont'd)

49/N

@3dprinting The HÖGBO doors are on, and I threw a few spools of filament in to see what it looks like. That's quite a gap between the doors, about 8mm.

I got busy and installed the doors today because I saw this on Reddit.
https://i.redd.it/vl68p9ut3e8f1.jpeg

48/N

@3dprinting The BILLY has polyurethane on one face of all five sides, and all the seams are caulked. The electrical box is not caulked, nor are the holes for the fasteners. I did caulk over the 176 holes for adjusting the shelves.

None of this will matter unless I get a really good seal around the doors. That's TBD.

47/N

@3dprinting I didn't even try to make the back side look good. So of course that's where I got the best bead in the caulk.

I applied two coats of polyurethane and didn't sand them down.

46/N

@3dprinting I'd been procrastinating assembling the FilaBilly Humidor because I feared the caulking would be messy and look bad. And I was right! Looks bad! Still, it's done now. It won't look too bad in the dark. Except — I'm going to light this cabinet up like a stadium.

My temporary superpower is rubberized fingertips. I should play my bass today.

45/N

@3dprinting The FilaBilly Humidor's power inlet does in fact clear the spools by more than 5mm. As foretold by the prophecy upthread in 40.

Gratuitous towel content to make up for the lack of towels in 42.

44/N

@3dprinting The FilaBilly rail alignment jig is pretty clever. It worked great.

(I may be the first person in history to use a carpenter's square and clamps to assemble a BILLY.)

43/N

@3dprinting I cut the hole in the FilaBilly Humidor's side today. I used it as an excuse to get a new toy-- er, tool for the workshop. Jigsaws have come a long way since my 1985 model.

https://www.dewalt.com/product/dcs334b/20v-max-xr-cordless-jig-saw-tool-only

42/N -- No towels were harmed in the making of this post.

@3dprinting I've always wanted to make a drill bit stop to make holes with controlled depth. Since I need to drill 73 15mm deep holes for the FilaBilly Humidor's rack ends, and the screws are supposed to arrive today, today is the day to actually make one.

The bit is centered between four flexible arms (PETG). The drill depth is set by how far I insert the bit into the chuck. This is another @rahix inspired design-for-printing thing.

41/N

@3dprinting I've been struggling to visualize the FilaBilly Humidor's power inlet. I think this design will work. It looks like it can be printed, wired and assembled.

It needs to be thin to fit the side of the BILLY behind the spools. This is just 39.6mm wide, and it clears the spools by 5mm. It will be right up against the BILLY's back wall.

One outlet is for the dehumidifier, and the other is for the lights and sensors.

40/N

@3dprinting The passive air return is in. The fan on the right will pull air from the upper to the lower compartment, and the return on the left will -- uh, let it return. I decided to make the return look like another Noctua fan.

39/N

@3dprinting

Kid: Can we have Noctua NF-A12x25? Please?

Mom: We have Noctua NF-A12x25 at home.

Noctua NF-A12x25 at home:

38/N

(Not my model, but I modified it for printability and removed the blades.)

@3dprinting This is the FilaBilly Humidor's center shelf. I am putting a 120mm fan in to circulate air between the top and bottom halves. I printed this surround in two pieces. I'm pleased with how it came out.

Yes, it's crooked in the photos. I straightened it as soon as I saw the photos, but I didn't re-photograph it.

37/N